
Yesterday was by far one of the most auspicious days we'll ever encounter, so I hope you all went out and did something with the lucky like buy a lottery ticket or something. The reason it is considered lucky by Chinese standards is that the Chinese character for eight (八) is pronounced ba1, which sounds like fa1 (发)and 发财 means to get rich and get wealthy. Chinese people are heavily superstitious, so when faced with decisions like buying a house, a car, or a phone number, how lucky the number is will come into play. For example, purchasing the Chinese phone number 8888-8888
costs around $270,000 US! The cheapest numbers are the ones with the most fours because four (四)is pronounced si4 which sounds like 死 (si3) which means to die. My chinese phone number here has 3 fours in it alone (I'm cheap, what can you say) although there's one 8 if that evens it out.
So that explains why China, fortunate enough to hold the 08 olympics, began the ceremonies on 8.8.08 at exactly 8:08 pm. And I have to say, it was amazing and blew away all my expectations.
Specifically for the occasion my father bought a new high definition television (as for him, the Olympics in China is a once in a lifetime seemingly impossible experience) so I'm confident in saying I might of had a better viewing time than those in the Bird's Nest as I didn't have to deal with the heat, humidity, or the pollution. I think it was a little disappointing that the skies were the all to familiar shade of Beijing gray, considering the amount of effort that was put into it. Beginning July 2oth, a pollution
crunch down began. Work stopped at all construction site, mines, chemical plants in Beijing (except for the CCTV tower). Factories were required to cut emissions by 30%, neighboring cities Tianjing and Tangshan closed hundreds of factories. Government traffic was cut by 70% and private cars were divided into even and odd numbers so that if your license plate ended in an even number you could only drive on an even numbered day, and vice versa which was supposed to cut down on traffic.
While these measures did wonders for the Sino African summit in 2006, according to my dad skies were blue then and most of the roads were free I think they've had a limited affect here. I have seen maybe a couple days of blue skies (a first for Beijing which resulted in much excitement on my part) but other than that there have been limited effects. Public transportation such as buses and taxis have increased, as has bike traffic. While during non-rush hours there are significantly less cars on the road rush hours are still as bad. A day after the traffic measures had been enacted I was on a bus stuck in traffic so bad it took us 50 minutes to move one stop (keep in mind I probably could of walked this distance in 20 minutes). Our bus driver was in the inside lane and wouldn't let people off which started a semi riot on our bus of people late for work and appointments and took the opportunity to scream at the bus driver. Furthermore, on the actual day of the opening ceremonies everyone had the day off so as time got closer to the evening, private cars were few and far between.
My assumption is this 1) there significantly more cars than in 2006 so it has a limited impact and 2) Beijing traffic is normally so bad that rush hours doesn't really apply in some areas (rush-days we call em) and 3) to enforce these traffic measure the number of policemen patrolling areas has increased which means people are less likely to violate traffic rules, so everyone drives slower and more cautiously which doesn't really help to alleviate things. Also, this just may show the pollution has gotten to the point where short term solutions don't work. However, these measures will be in effect until the end of the Paraolympics on September 20th so I expect better results towards the end of the Olympics or the end of August.
Now, onto the actual ceremonies. They blew away my expectations, as they should have, for while the official estimate is not being revealed, it ranges from $100 million to $300 million for the opening cermonies alone, and seeing as Athens came in at $44 million it is obviously expected that China's be more impressive. My only wonder is if London will try to top China and outspend them (a hefty task) or just settle for second best. The whole ceremony was very mystical and magical, it was impossible to anticipate what was going to happen next, what was digital machine and what was man and a seamless integration of Chinese history, culture, art with modern technology.
Surprisingly absent were the Fuwas (China's olympic mascots) as well as references to more modern Chinese history and culture (communist or otherwise) but I think what surprised me is how despite the use of many modern gismos, how organic it all came across. The music was composed by Tan Dun, a Chinese composer most famous for scoring Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, and Hero. He recently had an opera, Tea, open at the National Theater in Beijing which heavily used the natural sounds of water dropping and paper ripping in the score (I wonder what the sheet music looks like) so its no surprise that in many cases the music was unobtrusive, using natural sounds and ancient Chinese instruments so as not to overpower the performance.
I think it is easy to see Director Zhang Yi Mou's influence because it definitely felt like he was telling a story. Using the painting and scrolls as an on going theme to demonstrate some of the more famous elements of ancient Chinese history and culture he painted a portrait of China from an artistic perspective, but it evolved. My favorite segment by far was the printing press of characters. In part due to my obsession the the development of language, I thought it was an unbelieveable display. My father and I were debating if it was man or machine in the blocks but to discover it was men (if you noticed, the gender of the majority of opening ceremonies performers cough cough)--I was completely surprised. No doubt many of the elements of the ceremonies demonstrated China's impeccable discipline (reminscent of North Korea's Mass Games) to coordinate what were usually a group of 2008 performers, but I think to perform while in a block and thereby having your view of your neighbor restricted is even more difficult.
While some parts I think would have little significance for foreign viewers unfamiliar with Chinese history and art, the spectacle of the drummers and the martial artists won't be forgotten by anyone. Also, hard to miss was the theme of a green Olympics and a peaceful Olympics. The final song (a dud, I think, compared to Welcome to Beijing/北京欢迎你 although I may be biased because I've heard that song so many times while I've been here) was performed on a green globe (my favorite, and the least gimmicky of the modern gismos), the chinese characters made by the blocks were for peace. All 56 Chinese minorities were present in full form to present unity, and the peace dove (bad chinese to english translation of 和平鸽) made multiple appearances in the light formation or in the arms of the final dancers.
Many people I've talked to have echoed their sentiments. Before China wanted a 热闹 Olympics (there's no real english equivalent for this word, but can be equated with bustling with activity, a kind of crowded excitement fervor is how I describe it), but now they just want a 平安奥运 (a peaceful and safe Olympics). Be in bombs in the airports, the incident in Xin Jiang that killed 16 officers or the constant threats, be it peaceful protests or attacks, I think most are genuinely scared that something bad is going to happen. Most of my relatives are afraid for me and don't want me to take public transportation because they worry for my safety. My worry varies, I think the security measures are immense, and Chinese people in general always are concerned about the "what ifs" so have taken every possible precaution. But I expect something to happen during the Olympics. Not a terrorist attack per say, that's a worst case scenario situation. But I expect there to be an incident with protesters and it turn into a he said she said story with the Chinese media on one side and the Western media on another. That is just an indication of cultural difference of how protesters are viewed. In the US, even if you don't agree with them they have a right to be there. In China there is no idea of this intrinsic right and they are considered trouble makers equivalent to those who disrupt the domestic piece.
I also don't worry because under my best efforts, I can pass for a local Chinese (or at least go under the radar) with my language skills and if I dress in a less American way. Hopefully this
incident of an American tourist getting killed will be the only one of its kind. However, I think it can be seen in the attendance that many foreign tourist are afraid also. I think this year more than ever the Olympic audience (just look at the opening ceremonies) have less foreign participation and more local participation than ever before. I think its not only because China has a huge population but because the government has done a lot to make sure the average citizen has a chance at seeing the Olympics with heavily heavily subsidized tickets (which explains how we have tickets for a front row tennis competition that cost 100 yuan which is approximately $14 US).
But I think for China, those little bumps of problems are only small imperfections. I was in China when it was announced that the Olympics would be held in Beijing. The celebrations then were already so ecstatic that in the minds of the Chinese people, they've already won something more precious than any gold medal. They see the honor of holding the Olympics as being viewed equally with developed countries and their Western peers and they have been willing to put extravagant amounts of time, money and man power into creating a spectacle that will impress anyone. If the Opening Ceremonies are any indication, they have already succeeded. Hopefully everything else goes just as smoothly and spectacularly.
中国加油!奥运加油!